On the way out, I notice a stack-a-box filled with innocent duck legs, awaiting the wrath of the kitchen, and want to cry. Duck & Waffle Local has its moments, but the view from the sky-high original is clearly the real unique selling point. On the ground, alas, the entire concept is simply absurd. Continue reading
Like most things in life, the simplest restaurant dishes are generally the endearingly memorable. So it’s hardly surprising that the ingenuous bone marrow salad at St John in Clerkenwell has been on the menu, unchanged, for the past 23 years. In turn, when presenting paying customers with something so simple, it’s crucial that each element … Continue reading
Away from the hustle and bustle of Soho, Mayfair and Shoreditch, Ceru opened at the end of last year, offering a taste of the Levant in a neighbourhood space near South Kensington tube station. “Born from a love of food, drink and sunshine”, Ceru began life as a project from husband and wife team Barry … Continue reading
Dinner at The Gamebird proves that, divergent to popular belief, British food needn’t be bland or unexciting. Continue reading
Within his 1952 opus, The Old Man and the Sea – the final novel to be published during his lifetime – Ernest Hemingway wrote: “But thank God, they [fish] are not as intelligent as we who kill them; although they are more able and more noble.” Of all the pearls of wisdom imparted throughout the … Continue reading
Recently opened in The Hari Hotel, Il Pampero is a rare brilliant example of Italian fine dining in central London. Continue reading
When I first started writing about restaurants, the whole concept of posting food photographs on Instagram irritated me beyond belief. I’d rant obstinately about the whole concept until the sloshed, fondled Wagyu cows came home. Most jobs, however, make it completely necessary to leave certain beliefs at the door. Hate it or love it, social … Continue reading
