ZELA – a restaurant backed by Cristiano Ronaldo, Rafael Nadal, Enrique Iglesias and NBA star Pau Gasol – serves a new, abominable Franken-cuisine. Continue reading
Tag Archives: Restaurant Review
Is this the best restaurant in London?
With so much to love at breakfast, lunch and dinner, these assets contribute to St. JOHN’s unrivalled brilliance. A strong contender for the title of London’s best restaurant. Continue reading
Vive le fried chicken revolution: in search of the perfect fried chicken
I’ve never felt cool enough for Shoreditch. Even when I used to wear questionably tight jeans, spent all of my money on vinyl records and devoted some of my late teenage years to writing about emerging Indie bands for the NME, I never quite managed to fit in. In 2018 though, now that much of … Continue reading
Restaurant Review: Coal Rooms, Peckham
Within Gare de Lyon train station in Paris, Le Train Bleu epitomises a golden era of glamorous railway travel. Befitted with cavernous ceilings, grand frescoes, chandeliers and immaculately dressed waiters, the restaurant has been a fine dining institution since first opening in 1901. It’s also one of the most storied restaurants in Paris – arguably … Continue reading
Restaurant Review: Pufferfish at Mahiki, Kensington
A classic example of a restaurant designed for people who don’t like food, Pufferfish’s Pan Asian menu leaves me feeling entirely deflated, quite ironically. Continue reading
Exploring regional Chinese cuisine at Dumplings’ Legend
Regrettably, I remember my first Chinatown dinner experience quite well. One summer evening during the late nineties (I could only have been six or seven years old), following a matinee theatre performance, somebody suggested we might visit one of those all-you-can-eat restaurants on the south side of Gerrard Street. Exciting at the time. The name … Continue reading
Dinner at Padella is actually worth queuing for
While being herded like cattle through Gatwick airport recently, one member of a particularly raucous stag weekend roared: “England – the only country with queues longer than the entire flight home.” Like the birth right to complain about literally everything, and to make terrible decisions at the Polling Station; queuing is so ingrained into our … Continue reading
Restaurant Review: Duck & Waffle Local
On the way out, I notice a stack-a-box filled with innocent duck legs, awaiting the wrath of the kitchen, and want to cry. Duck & Waffle Local has its moments, but the view from the sky-high original is clearly the real unique selling point. On the ground, alas, the entire concept is simply absurd. Continue reading
Is this the most disappointing steakhouse in London?
Like most things in life, the simplest restaurant dishes are generally the endearingly memorable. So it’s hardly surprising that the ingenuous bone marrow salad at St John in Clerkenwell has been on the menu, unchanged, for the past 23 years. In turn, when presenting paying customers with something so simple, it’s crucial that each element … Continue reading
Restaurant Review – Madison
Have you ever been to a high-rise restaurant so bad, so incomprehensibly grim, that you’ve genuinely considered jumping from the top floor, if only to spite them? Continue reading
Jonathan Hatchman 